(I'd be inclined to make the center unit of the IKEA photo the one that would be placed by the partially blocking door since the two outside sections, in the IKEA photo, look like the most useful pieces). You might also consider unhooking the closet door (typically the door should have a peg that fits in at the top and bottom that you can disconnect) that is blocking the drawers at the top, making that door more of a full-swing door, and place clothes that you don't need very often on the left side. it will be a bear to dismantle and return.
But then again, I'm lazy and would be so angry at myself for having put together that big IKEA unit. The right unit would be your main hanging unit and the far left unit, partially blocked by the door, could be for hanging long items, maybe a shelf near the top for storage or out of season clothing perhaps, or a laundry hamper on the bottom and hanging above that. You might have to drill some extra holes but perhaps you could have the center unit use all of the drawers that you purchased, with shelving above it. I would keep the doors that you have (again, it's that lazy, and cheap, thing that I have going on) and tweak the IKEA unit. Since you have gone to the trouble of purchasing the IKEA unit and put it together, and get it in your closet (a LOT of work, no doubt) I would be inclined to keep the IKEA unit. I am lazier than lazy can be so take my suggestions with a grain of salt. If you are looking for a quick fix, it would be better to have soil that grades away from your foundation and be technically to close to your siding than to have a negative grade and water infiltrating your basement or crawl space. It is common to see what you are suggesting with regards to putting a window well to allow you to raise the soil at the house and often this can be a good compromise and in some cases is very difficult to avoid. If you are essentially flat or going up hill from the edge of your house, you may have to dig down at that 5' mark (or further depending on a myriad of factors (yard size, landscape design, etc) and put in a small retaining wall that will allow you to get the correct grade away from the house. Typically, code/inspectors are looking for a minimum of 5% grade for the first 5' with a 2% thereafter.
Graph a line with a slope of 2/3.It appears the soil is already higher than would typically be allowed by code at the house (generally 6" clearance from soil top to bottom of siding material). If you need help with graphing an actual equation and need to know which point to plot first, visit our lesson on Slope Intercept Form.
In this example, we are only focusing on how to count the slope and plot the next point.
Count the rise from the point that you plotted. For right now, we are only focusing on slope.) (In the next lesson, Graphing with Slope Intercept Form, you will learn the exact point that needs to be plotted first. Steps for Graphing a Line With a Given Slope